This rare Universal Genève Compax 22493 from the 1940s captivates with its large diameter and an uncommon sandwich dial.
Sandwich dials may appear understated at first glance, but they are the equivalent of the expressive case and lug designs of the late Art Deco era. They introduced true visual depth to the dial, enhancing both aesthetics and legibility. The characteristic 3D effect is created by layering two metal plates and cutting the indices out of the upper layer.
We love the way the sub-dials play with the light — almost magically. Depending on the angle, all three registers shift in tone and contribute remarkable depth and vibrancy to the watch.
Finely applied gold hour markers and elegant dauphine hands harmonize beautifully with the blued subdial hands — a refined and expressive combination. The original luminous material has aged evenly, underscoring the authentic character of this timepiece.
The stainless steel case, large for its era at 37 mm, impresses with sharp edges, clean lines and wonderfully preserved proportions. The clearly legible engravings on the caseback show that the watch has been only lightly, if ever, polished — an important detail that enhances its collectability.
Inside ticks the reliable Universal Genève Caliber 287 — a precise and robust hand-wound movement regarded as one of the finest of its time.
A classic chronograph with remarkable charisma and rare dial - a true example of Universal Genève’s enduring elegance.
Condition report
Dial: exceptionally well-preserved and clean dial – clean subsidiary registers – original, intact, and evenly aged luminous material on both markers and hands – signed "Universal Genève Compax Swiss".
Case: 37 mm stainless steel case in excellent condition – minor signs of wear – deep, clearly visible reference and serial number engravings on the caseback – rectangular pushers.
Movement: hand-wound Universal Genève Caliber 287 – timegrapher values: rate deviation: -5s/day, amplitude: 290, beat error: 3.0.
Serial number: 1258xxx
Int.Exe.: 64324