This IWC Portugieser Reference 325 is one of the most significant wristwatches in horological history. At first glance, the unrestored original dial immediately captivates with its exceptionally even patina, giving the watch a unique character that has developed naturally over decades. Combined with the legendary Calibre 74 and its unusually large 42 mm stainless steel case, it ranks among the most fascinating vintage IWC timepieces ever produced.
In the late 1930s, IWC received an unusual request from two Portuguese watch dealers. They were looking for a wristwatch that combined the precision of a pocket watch movement with the comfort of a wristwatch. To meet this demand, IWC chose its slim and highly reliable Calibre 74 and housed it in what was, for the time, an enormous 42 mm case. At a time when wristwatches were typically much smaller and heavily influenced by Art Deco design, the Portugieser set entirely new standards. Between 1939 and 1951, only 309 examples of Reference 325 were produced, making it one of the great icons of Swiss watchmaking today.
The present example stands out with its exceptionally authentic original condition. The patina that has developed over many decades makes the dial truly one of a kind. This natural ageing gives the watch its unmistakable vintage character and tells a story that simply cannot be recreated.
The applied gold hour markers harmonize beautifully with the elegant feuille hands, lending the watch remarkable elegance despite its generous size. The oversized small seconds subdial further emphasizes the unmistakable character of the early Portugieser models. Another attractive detail is the original, generously sized fluted crown, which would later become one of the defining design elements of the Portugieser collection.
On the wrist, the Portugieser makes a striking impression. Its exceptional 42 mm diameter — extraordinarily large for its era — still provides an impressive presence today. The authentic vintage character of this watch is certain to attract attention wherever it is worn.
As IWC's first wristwatch powered by a pocket watch movement, the Portugieser is widely regarded as the forerunner of today's large-format wristwatches. Its historical importance, limited production and timeless design have made Reference 325 one of the most desirable collector's watches ever produced — an icon that brings watchmaking history to life on the wrist.
Condition Report
Dial: Beautiful, even patina developed through natural ageing – applied gold Arabic numerals – signed "International Watch Co Schaffhausen".
Case: 42 mm stainless steel case in excellent condition – light signs of wear – case number stamped on both the exterior and interior case back – original crown.
Movement: Manual-winding IWC Calibre 74 in excellent condition – Timegrapher results: rate -16 seconds/day, amplitude 348°, beat error 0.4 ms.
Case number: 1087xxx
Movement number: 932xxx
Int.Exe.: 1248056