Universal Genève 106.553/1 Pink Gold - Pink Clous de Paris Dial

This Universal Genève reference 106553/1 from 1956 is a fascinating example of the extraordinary design creativity found in Swiss watchmaking during the 1950s. With its square 18k pink gold case, elaborately executed Clous de Paris bezel, and equally distinctive salmon-colored dial, the watch presents an exceptionally extravagant and unmistakable design.

The absolute highlight of this watch is the fascinating interplay between the case and dial. The bezel is entirely decorated with an exceptionally fine Clous de Paris pattern, whose small pyramid-shaped structures create constantly changing reflections depending on the light. What makes the design particularly unusual is that Universal Genève continued this pattern onto the dial. The identical texture creates an impressive visual unity between the dial and case.

The original salmon-colored dial is preserved in excellent condition and harmonizes beautifully with the warm tone of the pink gold case. Applied gold hour markers, the characteristic Universal emblem at 12 o’clock, and elegant Dauphine hands underline the refined character of the watch. A subtle contrast is provided by the blued central seconds hand, whose deep blue tone appears with varying intensity depending on the light.

Inside is the manually wound Universal Genève caliber 332. The watch therefore represents the tradition of fine Universal Genève dress watches of this period not only in terms of design, but also from a technical perspective.

Equally impressive is the exceptional state of preservation of this example. The delicate structures of the Clous de Paris bezel remain remarkably crisp and well defined, as do the characteristic shapes of the case and lugs. Together with the beautifully preserved original dial, the watch offers a remarkably authentic impression of the quality and design sophistication with which Universal Genève produced its more unconventional models in the mid-1950s.

This watch is far removed from the better-known Universal Genève classics, and that is precisely what makes it so appealing. With its rare combination of pink gold, a salmon-colored Clous de Paris dial, and matching Clous de Paris bezel, it is a small jewel on the wrist – an exceptional and highly charming expression of 1950s design culture.

Condition Report
Dial: Salmon-colored Clous de Paris dial in flawless condition – applied “Universal” logo – applied gold hour markers – Dauphine hands – blued central seconds hand – signed “Swiss”.

Case: 18k pink gold case – excellently preserved – light signs of wear – sharp lugs – intact gold hallmarks – deep engravings on the caseback.

Movement: Manually wound Universal Genève caliber 332 – timegrapher readings: rate: +7 s/day, amplitude: 320°, beat error: 0.3 ms.

Serial nubmer: 1797xxx (1956)

Int.Exe.: 95350