Movado Sub Sea 95-704-568 Gilt Black Dial

This Movado Sub Sea Reference 95-704-568 from the 1960s stands out with its rare black gilt dial featuring three silver-colored subdials in the highly desirable reverse-panda configuration. Over the decades, the glossy black surface has developed a natural, even patina, giving the watch its distinctive vintage character.

Reference 95-704-568 belongs to the later executions of the classic Movado M95 chronograph and was produced during the second half of the 1960s.

The highlight of this Movado is its rare black gilt dial. While many examples of this reference feature light-colored dials, the black reverse-panda version presented here is considerably harder to find. The naturally developed patina is evenly distributed across the entire dial, emphasizing its authentic, original condition.

Another remarkable feature is the unusual hands of the three subdials. Their elegantly curved, snake-like shape earned them the names "Serpentine Hands" and "Snake Hands." This distinctive design adds a special touch of sophistication to the chronograph. Combined with the rare black gilt dial, it creates a particularly attractive and unmistakable appearance.

The stainless steel case was manufactured by François Borgel, respectively Taubert & Fils, a renowned Swiss case maker that also produced cases for Patek Philippe. The company was particularly well known for its high-quality, water-resistant case constructions. This example is preserved in great, presumably unpolished condition. The original sharp edges and bevels remain clearly defined, preserving the distinctive shape of the case. Particularly pleasing is the fact that the original "Sub Sea" engraving is still visible on the screw-down caseback. The "STAINLESS STEEL" engraving and the case number 16xx between the lugs have also survived. The latter matches the number engraved inside the caseback – a beautiful and important detail for collectors.

Inside beats the Movado in-house Caliber M95, a high-quality manual-winding movement with 17 jewels and an unusual chronograph construction. One of its distinctive features is the reversed operation of the chronograph: the lower pusher starts and stops the chronograph, while the upper pusher resets the chronograph hands. An additional inner dust cover protects the movement.

This Movado Sub Sea is complemented by a vintage stainless steel bracelet that perfectly suits the sporty yet elegant appearance of the chronograph.

A rare and particularly characterful Movado Sub Sea, whose black gilt reverse-panda dial, natural patina, and FB case make it a fascinating collector's piece from the 1960s.

Condition Report
Dial: Original black gilt dial with natural, even patina - original tritium luminous material - signed with: "Movado", "T SWISS T".

Case: 35 mm FB stainless steel case - presumably unpolished, with well-preserved edges and bevels on the lugs - natural signs of wear - screw-down caseback with preserved "Sub Sea" engraving - serial number engraved inside the caseback - matching case number between the lugs - preserved "STAINLESS STEEL" engraving between the lugs - original crown and original chronograph pushers - width between the lugs: 18 mm.

Movement: Manual-winding Movado Caliber M95 - chronograph starts, stops, and resets properly - timegrapher results: rate −16 s/day, amplitude 277°, beat error 2.7 ms.

Bracelet: Unbranded vintage stainless steel bracelet in very good condition - adjustable length between 18.8 and 20.1 cm (7.40–7.91 inches).

Serial number: 16xx

Int.Exe.: 17218