IWC R-148 – An Extraordinary 1970s Gold Jewelry Watch

There are watches where traditional watchmaking almost takes a back seat, allowing the creative freedom of jewelry design to take center stage. This IWC Reference R-148 from around 1975 is a fascinating example. With its spectacular bracelet crafted entirely from 18k gold, its unusual hexagonal case, and its unmistakable geometric design, it perfectly captures the experimental spirit of the 1970s. A watch that is as much a piece of jewelry as it is a timepiece, with a design that has lost none of its fascination even after half a century.

The absolute highlight of this IWC is undoubtedly its intricately crafted gold bracelet. The individual hexagonal links feature an artistic composition of three-dimensional geometric shapes, open triangles, and beautifully textured gold surfaces. Particularly captivating is the interplay of the different finishes: while the polished edges reflect the light, the almost crystal-like surfaces create a lively texture. The numerous openwork elements lend the bracelet a visual lightness that contrasts beautifully with the solid 18k gold. Depending on the angle of the light, the bracelet reveals a fascinating interplay of reflections. A remarkable example of goldsmith craftsmanship, with each individual link resembling a miniature sculpture.

Equally extraordinary is the harmonious integration of the hexagonal watch case into the bracelet's design. Rather than standing out as a separate watch, the case blends almost seamlessly into the geometric composition. The silver-colored dial, with its fine vertical satin finish, applied gold-colored hour markers, and slender hands, provides a deliberately understated contrast to the extravagant bracelet. Inside beats the mechanical IWC Caliber 432, a manually wound movement representing the traditional Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship behind this exceptional piece of jewelry.

Particularly remarkable is the watch's authentic state of preservation. The gold case shows natural signs of oxidation in certain areas, suggesting that the watch has remained largely untouched in storage for a very long period. The beautifully defined textures of the gold bracelet further reinforce the impression of a carefully preserved vintage timepiece. With such an intricately designed piece of jewelry, the preservation of these delicate surfaces is especially important. Both the case and the bracelet bear the appropriate gold hallmarks, confirming their construction in 18k gold.

This IWC R-148 is far more than an elegant vintage ladies' watch. It is a testament to an era when traditional Swiss watchmaking and creative goldsmith craftsmanship came together to produce sculptural pieces of jewelry. Its extravagant design, the elaborate craftsmanship of its 18k gold construction, and its authentic character developed over decades make it a truly unique collector's piece.

Condition Report

Dial: Original silver-colored dial with a fine vertical satin finish in great condition – light, authentic patina – signed "IWC International Watch Co Swiss".

Case: Hexagonal case crafted from solid 18k gold – intact gold hallmark on the side of the case – natural signs of oxidation in certain areas, suggesting a long period of largely undisturbed storage – the original contours and surfaces are beautifully preserved.

Movement: IWC manually wound Caliber 432 – currently undergoing a complete service.

Bracelet: Exceptionally intricate jewelry bracelet crafted from solid 18k gold in excellent condition – the distinctive geometric structures and finely textured gold surfaces are remarkably well preserved – the bracelet bears a 750 gold hallmark as well as an additional hallmark.

Case number: 1975xxx
Movement number: 1964xxx

Int.Exe.: 9203800